Here are some ingredients you might notice in a Korean skin care routine and product trends in 2022.
#1 HydroxypinacoloneRetinoate (HPR)
Hydroxypinacoloneretinoate (HPR) is the rising star in the vitamin A family for reasons. HPR is an effective alternative to prescription retinoic acid. It does not have the unpleasant side effects of skin peeling or irritation. Clinical studies demonstrate that HPR reduces the appearance of lines and wrinkles in as little as 14 days. It also improves skin tone, texture and even oil production. HPR does everything retinol does but with increased strength and efficiency while also providing less risk of skin irritation. Vitamin A is the star ingredient in many anti-ageing products, and HPR is an effective alternative to prescription retinoic acid. The small molecular size means it effortlessly penetrates the skin and is stable and more hydrating than other forms of vitamin A.
#2 Peptides
Peptides are small numbers of amino acids– the building blocks of larger protein molecules – small enough to penetrate the skin, unlike large complex proteins. Peptides can perform many beneficial skin functions, including stimulating collagen, reducing uneven skin tone, redness, inflammation, and fine lines. Unlike naturally occurring ingredients, peptides can also be made in a laboratory to target skin concerns. Many products for acne prone skin have peptides in their formulation since some variations have antimicrobial properties.
#3 Prickly Pear Seed Oil
Prickly Pear Seed Oil is from a species of cactus called the Prickly Pear. The oil contains a vital skin component, linoleic acid, which helps hydrate the skin and protect the delicate skin barrier. This multi-use all-rounder also reduces inflammation and redness, promotes healing, and helps to prevent acne breakouts. High levels of vitamin F are very protective against our barriers. Our barrier needs to be stable to protect us from external factors like pollution and UV damage that can cause inflammation and ageing. The prickly pear seed oil has multiple benefits that will create visible and long-term changes in the skin, a tick from me!
#4 Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is a purified botanical extract of the seeds of the PsoraleaCorylifolia plant. This active ingredient is a gentler alternative to vitamin A, with clinically proven retinoid-like benefits. It’s not part of the vitamin A family and bears no chemical resemblance to the retinoids, but it does produce comparable skin benefits. It’s a great all-rounder for all skin types to calm inflammation in acne prone skin, the root cause of every skin condition. Being such a multi-benefit ingredient, I’ve included it as one of my favourite hero ingredients in facial oils.
#5 Zinc Oxide
Non-irritating and anti-inflammatory, zinc oxide offers broad-spectrum UVA and UVB plus IR protection and is non-comedogenic and will not clog pores. The ingredient technology means zinc oxide can be a virtually invisible finish. Zinc oxide is the answer to the ongoing “physical vs chemical sunscreen” debate among the skin care savvy. Zinc oxide is considered the safest and most effective UVA/UVB protecting ingredient on the market. It is the only mineral approved that effectively blocks UVA and UVB rays as an ingredient. Not to mention, its anti-inflammatory properties make it a fantastic moisturiser option for acne sufferers!
#6 Niacinamide
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a stable vitamin that offers a wide range of well-documented topical benefits. It helps hydrate skin, treats hyperpigmentation, promotes skin elasticity, decreases redness and blotchiness and acts as an antioxidant, fighting free radicals. The good news is that it also helps build keratin – a type of protein that keeps your skin firm and healthy. Niacinamide was one of the first ingredients formulated with the Vitamin B serum that has a cult following. It’s stable, penetrates the skin effortlessly to reach those target cells, and is gentle on almost every skin type. The many skin benefits it brings make it the ‘multitasker’ of active ingredients and will continue to be a trend in the skincare industry. You can already see this ingredient present in serum, moisturiser and cleanser lines for oily skin.
#7 Pre- and Probiotics
Prebiotics provide the ‘food’ for the good bacteria living on your skin – Inulin is an example of prebiotic skin food. Probiotics stimulate the immunity of the skin and protect it from irritation and stress. An in vivo study of 20 volunteers showed that skin treated with probiotic lysates showed a reduction in stinging, water loss and barrier dysfunction. The ideal skincare formulations contain a combination of probiotics and prebiotics such as Dermiotic. Clinical data support the positive impact of cosmeceutical prebiotic and probiotic products in controlling balance and protecting the skin’s barrier. Balancing the microbiome has been on trend for years, but it seems to be gaining more attention now too.
#8 Hyaluronic Acid
Despite its name, hyaluronic acid is not acidic and is in skincare as sodium hyaluronate. In the skin, it’s a type of sugar in a thick gel-like consistency found in our dermis that hydrates and fills up the spaces between the collagen and elastin fibres. Hyaluronic acid is a must-have ingredient that continues to pop up in skincare products. However, it is crucial to remember that using this ingredient topically is beneficial for surface hydration. It is not able to reach the deeper dermis where it is naturally present in the skin. The molecular weight is too large to penetrate the dermis, so it’s simply a hydrator of the epidermis, plumping up the cells on the outside. Many moisturising creams and formulations for oily and acne prone skin have hyaluronic acid as an ingredient.
#9 Collagen
Collagen is the scaffolding of our skin. Skin cells continually produce collagen. However, as you age, your body produces less collagen, leading to dry skin and the formation of wrinkles. The marketing for collagen products claims they can improve skin elasticity, reduce visible wrinkles, and increase blood flow to the skin. There is no scientific evidence that adding collagen to skin care or taking collagen supplements will improve your skin’s quality or reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Collagen molecules are large, complex proteins – far too big to penetrate the skin. Unfortunately, this ingredient, whether ingested or applied topically, does not live up to the hype.
Check out Asian Beauty X and their array of products that fit all Asian skin types. You will find lines of moisturiser, serum, cream and cleanser for dry to sensitive skin. Scroll through their inventory list of products offered to Singapore women.